September 2011 - Latvia and Riga

After summer vacation we will now discover an old USSR country : LATVIA, and mainly the capital, RIGA, that we have visited last July. 

Latvia is a small country (64.500 sq km) with 2,3 million inhabitants, which has boundaries with the Baltic Sea (over 500 km coastline), Estonia and Lithuania.  The natural resources are mainly peat, limestone, dolomite, amber, hydropower, and wood.

Around 30% of people are Russian : it’s due to the history. The main languages spoken are Latvian, and Russian (mainly spoken in the street !). In the touristic places we will find people speaking English and German. Riga is a favorite place to spend a week-end for tourism.

What is the history of Latvia, and RIGA capital, in brief ?

10th–11th century : First settlements of local inhabitants.

1150 : Riga was a trading place with tradesmen coming both from West and East.

1199 : Bishop Albert of Livona arrives with 23 ships of crusaders where the river Dvina (Daugava) meets the Baltic Sea.

1201 : Riga was founded by the Bishop Albert and he founded the Brothers of the Sword.

1237 : The Livonian Brothers of the Sword joins the Teutonic Knights.

1282 : Riga joined the Hanseatic League and was the biggest Hanseatic town in Eastern Baltics. The Hanseatic League (Hansa) was formed around the middle of the 12th century by German and Scandinavian seafaring merchants.

1558 : The Livonian War starts.

1561 : The surrounding land of Riga was passed to Poland by the Teutonic Knights.

1582 : Riga itself compelled to capitulate to the Polish King Stephan Batory and was passed to the Poland-Lithuanian state.

1621 : Gustavus II Adolphus of Sweden captured Riga, but both Poles and Swedes granted Riga autonomy of government.

1710 : Sweden formally ceded the city by the Treaty of Nystad in 1721 to Czar Peter I and the Russian Empire.

1915 : World War I. German troops conquer Latvia.

1921 : Riga became capital of independent Latvia.

1940 : Latvia was occupied by the Russians and incorporated into the Soviet Union.

1941 : World war II. Riga underwent German occupation. The Latvians are forced to fight in both occupant armies – the Red army and the German army. The city sustained heavy damage. 35% of the nation perish, are mass deported to Siberia or emigrate as an outcome of the war.

1945 : Latvia remains under Soviet control, a large Russian immigration starts.

1991 : Aug 21, Latvia declared itself as an independent democratic state with Riga as the capital.

On September independence of Latvia was recognised by main European countries and USA and September 6th USSR recognised Latvia. 

On 17th of September Latvia became a member of the United Nations.

2004 : May 1, Latvia became member of the European Union.

What to know about Riga ?

Riga is the largest city in the Baltic States with over 700.000 inhabitants. The city is located on both banks of the river Daugava which separates the city into two parts, Vecriga (Old Riga) and Pardaugava. There are four bridges between banks, with one dedicated to railway trafic.

Riga is close to the Gulf of Riga at the Baltic Sea and the harbour is an important part of the city’s development. Once the river was an important as a strategically location called the “Amber Way” where the Nordic Vikings started their travels towards East. Today you will find in the very heart of the city, just at the doorsteps to the Old Town, the Sea Passenger Terminal. Riga is also a hub for both the domestic and international trains. Only twenty minutes away from the city centre you find the biggest airport in the Baltic States, Riga International Airport, which is an important hub for low cost flights between Western Europe and Eastern Europe and Russia.

Riga was officially founded by the German Bishop Albert in 1201, though the area was earlier populated. An economic and building boom at the beginning of the 20th century made Riga into the leading Art Nouveau (Jugendstil) city in the world and one of the most prosperous city in Russian empire. From 1901 to 1912 Riga had a British mayor, Mr. George Armitstead. Riga and Latvia enjoyed independence from 1918 to 1940 when Communist Soviet and Nazi German occupations started. Riga stayed under soviet rule until 1991 when Riga and Latvia regained independence and freedom. In year 2001 Riga celebrated its 800-year-anniversary and was one of Europe’s Cities of Culture. Today Riga is one of Europe’s most dynamic and rapidly developing cities. In 1995 Historic Centre of Riga - Old Riga - was included in UNESCO World Heritage list.

You have the choice between walk or ride a bike or take the trolley to discover Riga !

The Freedom Monument, affectionately called Milda by locals dates from 1935. It's a national shrine for Latvians in memory of people who were deported to Siberia in Soviet times. Milda is the symbol of the freedom of Latvian people and the three stars in the maiden's hands represent the three historical regions of the country : Kurzeme, Vidzeme and Latgale.

The House of Blackheads dating from 1344, was used to house traveling, single members of the merchants guild. It first received all the guilds, and that of Blackheads only a single combination of rich merchants. Party room, game and dance, it also served as a concert hall, and welcomed artists including Wagner, Liszt or Berlioz.

It was nevertheless totally destroyed in 1941 during a German bombing during the Second World War. When peace returned, the Soviet authorities dynamited ruins remaining of the monument and replaced it by a garden, the sculptures adorning the facade being stored in museums of the city. It was so until the mid-1990 when it was decided the identical reconstruction of the building from engravings and plans. It was completed in 1999.

Unfortunatly, an awful black cube, hosting the Museum of occupation of Latvia, has been build close to these splendid houses !

The Cat House : the story goes that 100 years ago, the Latvian owner of the building was "not welcomed" into the the powerful Great Guild across the road. He ordered that cats (located on the roof) are moved so that their tails are turned towards the house of the Guild as an affront. A lengthy court battle followed : the "cats" were eventually returned and he was admitted to the Guild.

The "Three Brothers" is a collection of medieval buildings which depict different stages in the architectural development of Riga (medieval to Baroque).

The Old City Walls and the Swedish Gate : This is the oldest remaining portion of the Old Town "fort type" walls. The Swedish Gate dates back to 1698 to celebrate the Scandinavians' occupation while the walls were built between the 13th and 16th centuries.

Including to these Old town fortifications, the Powder Tower, below  is also famous.

The Riga Castle was built in 1330, it’s currently the residence of the president of Latvia. There was an official ceremony when we were there !

The Academy of Sciences : Building built by the Soviets, the local nicknames for this "Empire State Building" or "Stalin's birthday cake" or "the Kremlin".

When visiting St Peters Church then take the elevator to the top for an unbelievable 360 degree view. 

On the North section of the city you will find the remarkable Art Nouveau buildings erected in the expansion boom of the early 1900's. 

We have visited one of these houses, first appartment was occupied by painters (Janis Rozentals, Rudolf Blaumanis), 

and the other one was shared in the past (Soviets period) by 6 families !

Riga's Opera House was one of the first buildings to get a full make-over following the ousting of the Soviets in 1991. The park adjoining the Opera house is also a favorite place to sit and just enjoy.

The Bastejkalns Park is divided by the winding Pilsetas Canal. Besides benches to bask in the sun and picturesque bridges over the canal, the park contains memorials to those who died there in Latvia's struggle for freedom in 1991.

The Livu square is the place to feel the atmosphere of Riga : many bars, restaurants, souvenirs shops, and rickshaw (like in India) are waiting for transporting tourists.

The Dom square is also very busy each evening with concerts, many restaurants.

After this touristic tour, let's go to the central market, not far from the Soviet building : all products could be find here at cheaper price. As I avoid to take pictures with people on the market, don't be surprised to see quite nobody !

And don't forget to test the Latvian cooking : we had choosen a typical restaurant not far from the house of Blackheads.

 If you prefer to Riga the seaside beaches, then take the train to Majori Station in Jurmala City (less than half an hour). 


Where is Jurmala ?

                                                                                  Nice place for bathing !

When you arrive by train, there is a tourist office on the way to the town centre : it is not Russia !

When walking through the town you can see some fountains, statues and also an old hotel.

And beautiful wood houses : there are rich people living here !

 

Also some churches ...

But the most important to see is the wide beach (> 10km) and also to bath as the water temperature was fine last July !

Yes, I confirm, if you want to spend a 3 days weekend, then visit Riga and Jurmala !!