Thursday, April 22, 2010

April 2010 in Moscow : Novodievitchi



Always South of Moscow, not far from Moskva river we will discover a popular tourist site : Novodevichy. To get there take the subway (red line) and get off at Sportivnaya station.






The Novodevichy Convent, in South-Western Moscow, built in the 16th and 17th centuries in the so-called Moscow Baroque style, was part of a chain of monastic ensembles that were integrated into the defence system of the city. The convent was directly associated with the political, cultural and religious history of Russia, and closely linked to the Moscow Kremlin. It was used by women of the Tsar’s family and the aristocracy. Members of the Tsar’s family and entourage were also buried in its cemetery. The convent provides an example of the highest accomplishments of Russian architecture with rich interiors and an important collection of paintings and artefacts.


Let us first see the little cemetery that looks like the "Pere Lachaise" of Paris by the sidewalk to the right of the surrounding wall towards West. 
The cemetery was originally located only on the territory of the monastery. The official opening of its expansion took place in 1904. Its area has been expanded twice : in 1949 and then at the end 70s. Now area of the cemetery includes four parcels and occupies an area of over 7.5 hectares where are buried more 26,000 people. There are many personalities in the old cemetery and in the new one are the graves of writers as Nicolas Gogol, Anton Chekhov, Kropotkin and many Communists leaders like Khrushchev, Elsine ...






At the entrance there is a map (in Russian) but do not look for numbers of alleys that are shown on this plan and on the website http://novodevichye.com/ because you will not find them !
Take time to stroll and do not walk like this group of Japanese (yes, that's the reality) with their guide and his flag (he could loose some in crowd of the dead !) scheduled to take 10 minutes to visit the cimetery ... as usual, you know that ...
Only very original tombs and those of some individuals known people are presented. Some photos were taken mid-March (with snow) and other mid-April (this year without snow).
       

     
Poets, soldiers (one has thought to put a tank on his grave to defend it !), artists, scientists, statesmen, ...
 
Tombs very artistic and original (Tupolev below right)

 












Even touching and peaceful statues


 


and finally, Khrushchev and Boris Elsine

 

Let’s leave the cemetery by the sidewalk on right in order to make the outside around tour of the cemetery and so to arrive to the lake : it allows us to gradually discover the splendor of the Novodevichy Convent.










Now let's go through the porch : the cashier is left and you should pay a fee to take pictures.
 
Some information about this convent.
The Communists converted the monastery into a "Museum of the emancipation of Women ", then various museums, which permitted it not to be destroyed. The cathedral was reopened for worship in 1945, and nuns returned in 1984. At the center of the monastery, the 5 bells cathedral contains frescoes of great beauty dating from Ivan the Terrible. The tower is 72 meters height. Other buildings were added at the end of the seventeenth century during a renovation of the convent. There are Moscow Baroque style buildings, like red walls, towers with their crowns, the two churches over the doors, the dining hall or residential.
After closing the Novodevichy convent in 1922 an historical museum has been opened which became a property of the State Museum in 1934.
Over 80 years of hard work and careful study on the description and organization of the museum's collection were necessary with several generations of scientists. Above all, we should note the action of the first museum director, Elizabeth Sergeyevna Kropotkin, who managed to stop the removal of old goods of the Church in 1922. All the collections of the museum represents about 12,000 items.



The main collections are ancient paintings, the textiles from XVI-XX centuries, works with precious stones and archives of the monastery, libraries, manuscripts and early printed books. The sacristy of the monastery has been enriched by numerous contributions from individuals, and heritage from religious nobles. The best artists, jewelers, embroiderers of the time have worked here.
The main buildings to see (pictures from mid-March - there was a Russian tourist group who stayed outside a long time to listen explanations from their guide with -15 ° C, used to do it !) :
- The cathedral dedicated to the icon of Our Lady of Smolensk (1925) - currently closed for renovations


- The tower of the Novodevichy Convent (1690)
 
- Church of the Assumption (1687)
   
                                                               pretty painted boxes to buy ?
- Church Protection of the Mother of God  
- Church of the Transfiguration of Christ
- Church of St. Amboise

More information about the Novodevichy convent on the Russian site : http://www.openmoscow.ru/novodevichy.php
To return to the center of Moscow, instead of taking the subway it is possible to follow the wharfs of the Moskva : 1 and half hour walking, but running could be faster ! or with rollers ?
 

Thursday, April 8, 2010

April 2010 in Moscow : Eastern period and the south of Moscow


The subject of the beginning of April is the discovery of the southern sector of Moscow University "MGOU" during Easter period. 
Easter is the biggest celebration of Russian Orthodox calendar. On Saturday evening there are many people in churches to celebrate this fest and this year, important safety precautions have been taken to access certain basilicas (like Christ St Saviour) because of recent bombings in Metro Moscow.


The most famous tradition that survived is the Easter cake called "kulitch" (there is also another dessert called "Paskha").

The "Kulich" is prepared several days in advance. It is a cake flavored with rum and saffron, fabrication looking more like bread. It contains candied fruit, almonds and grapes. Its shape is special,any height, with the fondant icing poured on the sides. It is decorated with the XB letters with candied fruit, with Cyrillic letters for "Christos voskres" - "Christ has risen." Bringing it to Mass on Easter Sunday is a tradition, a candle stuck in its center, to be blessed by the priest. The "Kulich" is sometimes served with "Paskha" pyramid. You can still find the letters "XB" on its flanks. Made of white cheese drained, there is added nuts and berries, or lemon zest to make it cooler.

How to reach the "MGOU" university in Moscow ? The easiest way is the metro (red line until Universitet station) followed by 10 minutes walk.

The University of Moscow "MGOU" also called Lomonosov was founded in 1755. It is one of the oldest institutions of higher education in Russia. In 1940 it was renamed in honor of the Lomonosov Academician Mikhail Lomonosov (1711 - 1765), a prominent Russian scientist, who greatly contributed to the creation of the Moscow University. Some key figures to give an idea of the size : more than 40,000 students, over 4,000 teachers, over 15,000 workers and employees to manage and maintain over 600 buildings spread over 205 hectares, with a magnificent skyscraper with arrow over 200m high, which was built between 1949 and 1953.

Around at least 1 hour to walk around outside but it's worth doing it.

Then walk from the skyscraper towards the city, on the large esplanade north face of the skyscraper to go to Sparrow Hills. Make a stop next to the church of the "life-giving Trinity" with its green roof and the crowd of worshipers who come on Easter Saturday to bless their traditional "kulitch" cake.

The small place on Sparrow Hills, formerly known as Mount Lenin, dominates the city of Moscow and is the highest point (157 m). There are many souvenir vendors. Russians like to come in this greenery area to escape the pollution of Moscow and to do activities (rollerblading, walking, cross country skiing in winter ...). Let's take a panormic look to the business district on west side, the Luzhniki stadium in front, and on right side quite far, the Cathedral of Christ the Holy Saviour with the Kremlin on its right.

Curious to find a ski hill here : I will check if next winter it is still used ! By the way, there is even a chairlift that is there (but stopped) to reach the Mount of Sparrows. And if it works, it's a good plan with easy access (Metro "Vorobyovy Gory" perched on the bridge) for ski even if the altitude is not the Alps !

To end this discovery, let's walk down to the wharf of the Moskva. There are some walkers, cyclists, family skating and even joggers. Then resume Metro on the "Vorobyovy Gory" bridge to go back to the center of Moscow.