Still south of Moscow, accessible by subway, but far enough from Moscow downtown, we will discover a site frequented by few foreign tourists : Tsaritsyno.
To get there, take the Green Line Metro and get off at Orekhovo, the return may be made via the Tsaritsyno station.
On the map below where the center of Moscow is up, the site of Tsaritsyno is located at the bottom right (zoom o, the right picture). It is near the large circular MKAD road about 15 km from the center of Moscow.
Let's start with a little history with Catherine II.
In 1762 Catherine II, « the Great », a German princess, usurped the throne of her feeble hushand Peter III with the help of her lover Grigoriy Orlov, a guards officer. Under her energetic and intelligent leadership, the country saw another vast expansion in its prestige and made territorial gains at the expense of Turkey and its old adversary Poland. Catherine purchased great collections of European art and books (including Voltaire’s Library) and in 1767 published her Nakaz (Imperial instruction) upon which a reform of Russia’s legal system was to be based.
In 1762 Catherine II, « the Great », a German princess, usurped the throne of her feeble hushand Peter III with the help of her lover Grigoriy Orlov, a guards officer. Under her energetic and intelligent leadership, the country saw another vast expansion in its prestige and made territorial gains at the expense of Turkey and its old adversary Poland. Catherine purchased great collections of European art and books (including Voltaire’s Library) and in 1767 published her Nakaz (Imperial instruction) upon which a reform of Russia’s legal system was to be based.
What was the role of Catherine II for the Tsaritsyno site ?
Catherine II bought this tract of land in 1775 and changed the name from Chyornaya Gryaz (black mud) to Tsaritsyno (the Tsarina’s village). Then, she commissioned one of her most imaginative architects, Vasiliy Bazhenov, to design and construct a lavish imperil palace which would rival any found in St Petersburg.
Bazhenov conceived an innovative palace complex combining Gothic, Baroque and even Moorish styles and Catherine II approved the plans. She visited the site in 1785 (10 years later !) and, although construction was well under way, proclaimed herself dissatisfied. Bazhenov’s young colleage Matvey Kazakov was told to rebuild the palace but, after a further decade of construction, lack of funds left it incomplete.
Catherine II bought this tract of land in 1775 and changed the name from Chyornaya Gryaz (black mud) to Tsaritsyno (the Tsarina’s village). Then, she commissioned one of her most imaginative architects, Vasiliy Bazhenov, to design and construct a lavish imperil palace which would rival any found in St Petersburg.
Bazhenov conceived an innovative palace complex combining Gothic, Baroque and even Moorish styles and Catherine II approved the plans. She visited the site in 1785 (10 years later !) and, although construction was well under way, proclaimed herself dissatisfied. Bazhenov’s young colleage Matvey Kazakov was told to rebuild the palace but, after a further decade of construction, lack of funds left it incomplete.
Today the grounds boast charming lakes and Woodland walks. Some of the ruins have been restored, but the forlorn remainder have a beauty which the completed palace might never have matched. Although the shell of Kazakov’s Grand Palace is the most imposing building on the estate, some of the Bazhemov’s smaller structures are equally impressive.
Visitors can see the Figure Gate with its elegant Gothic style towers and lancet Windows, the Figured Bridge and the ornate two-storey Opera House, one of the few buildings Catherine approved.
Note on the left of "Figured door" the "House of Bread" :
We had the opportunity to attend a concert, songs from operettas and dances in the halls of the Grand Palace and at no extra cost because it was apparently the day of "heritage", that means free access to museums and castles !
Let's continue our walk in the park.
The attractive Church of "Our Lady of the life-giving spirit " was added in the 19th century.
The attractive Church of "Our Lady of the life-giving spirit " was added in the 19th century.
The use of the building called "3rd Cavalry Corps" built at the request of Catherine II has not yet been elucidated.
Opposite the church is the "Figured Bridge" designed by architect Bazhenov : it is a combination of brick with white stone bases, with towers and columns railing in a kind of gothic style.
Do not forget (like us) to go through the big Bazhemov Gothic bridge which was conceived as a ceremonial entrance to the residence of the Empress Catherine II.
Walking through the Tsaritsyno subway station, you can have a last look (although it is gray as it was on April 18th) to the palace that dominates the little hill surrounded by many lakes which have become a place of promenade for Moscow families.
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